Srinagar

Srinagar, at roughly 1,585 metres, is where nearly every Kashmir holiday begins. The city is spread around Dal Lake and along the Jhelum river, and much of its charm lies on the water. Carved wooden houseboats line the lake shores, shikaras with colourful canopies carry visitors past lotus beds and floating gardens, and at dawn vendors trade vegetables from their boats.

The Mughal emperors loved this valley, and their terraced gardens still rest along the Zabarwan hills. Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh step down towards the lake with fountains and chinar trees, while Chashme Shahi is built around a natural spring and Pari Mahal looks out over the city. In spring, the Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden fills with colour for a few weeks.

The old city has a very different rhythm, with its wooden mosques and shrines, including the Jamia Masjid and the Hazratbal shrine on the lake shore, and craftsmen working on papier-mâché, carpets and shawls. The Shankaracharya temple, on a hilltop above the city, gives the best panoramic view.

Plan at least two nights here, ideally one on a houseboat. Srinagar is also the base for day trips to Gulmarg and Sonmarg, and our Srinagar sightseeing cab covers the city at your pace. See the wider Kashmir guide for the full picture.

Spring (March–May): Blossoms, the tulip garden from late March into April, and pleasant weather. One of the best times to visit.

Summer (June–August): Warm days, long evenings on the lake and the gardens in full bloom. Busy with families during school holidays.

Autumn (September–November): Red and gold chinar leaves, clear skies and crisp air. Wonderful for photography.

Winter (December–February): Cold, often below freezing at night, with snowfall possible. Parts of the lake can freeze in very cold spells. Houseboats and hotels provide heating, and the city is calm and atmospheric.

For a first visit, April to June and September to October offer the most comfortable weather for shikara rides and garden visits, with spring blossom and autumn colours as a bonus. December to February suit travellers who want snow.

By air: Srinagar International Airport is around 12–14 km from the centre, with flights from Mumbai and Pune (direct or one-stop) and frequent connections via Delhi. We arrange airport transfers to your hotel or houseboat.

By train: Srinagar station is linked by the newer valley line to Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Katra, which connects with long-distance trains from across India. Jammu Tawi remains an alternative railhead.

By road: Srinagar is roughly 250–270 km from Jammu, around 7–9 hours by road, and roughly 420 km from Leh via Sonmarg and the Zojila Pass in season.

Within the city, private cabs and autorickshaws are easy to find, and shikaras ferry you to houseboats on the lake. A cab for the day is the simplest way to cover the gardens, shrines and old city, and it can continue to Gulmarg, Pahalgam or Sonmarg as your plan needs.